Absinthe
The history of absinthe is a cocktail of myth, conjecture and controversy. A turn-of-the-twentieth-century favorite of artists and writers, the spirit was banned in the United States in 1912 because it was believed to be hallucinogenic. Just a few years ago, it once again became legal in America to buy the high-alcohol, anise-flavored liquor.
The term “absinthe” comes from Artemisia absinthium, the scientific name for its key ingredient, wormwood. Long before distillers discovered it, the herb was used for medicinal purposes.
The production of absinthe is much like that of gin: High-proof neutral spirit is infused with a blend of botanicals, including wormwood, and redistilled. Traditionally, the alcohol is infused a second time before bottling to intensify the flavor and create the signature green color. Many modern producers skip this final step and use dyes instead.
Bourbon & American Whiskey
Bourbon's roots go back to the late 1700s, when westbound British, Irish and Scottish settlers started making whiskey in Kentucky. In 1964, the US Congress established federal regulations for producing the spirit. Bourbon must be made from a mash (the base mixture of grain and water) that is at least 51 percent corn. The rest of the mash is made up of rye, wheat and/or malted barley. Unlike Scotch or cognac, bourbon must by law be aged in new, charred oak barrels. While most bourbon today is still made in Kentucky, it can legally be made anywhere in the United States. The spirit’s beautiful amber color comes from the wood that it is aged in for at least two years; distillers can’t add any color to the finished product. Bourbon also has to be bottled at a minimum of 80-proof (40 percent alcohol by volume). Over the last ten years, bourbon has seen a rapid rise in popularity around the world. Demand has grown so much that distillers are having trouble keeping up. What’s driving sales are premium, small-batch bourbons, including Maker’s Mark, Knob Creek, Russell’s Reserve and Michter’s. Whether you’re in Louisville, New York or even Melbourne, Australia, you won’t have to look hard to find a bottle of good bourbon. Here’s a shot of spelling with your glass of bourbon: Whisky from Scotland, Canada and Japan is spelled without an “e.” Whiskey from Ireland and the United States is usually spelled with an “e.”
Cognac & Brandy
Sip a glass of cognac and you’ll understand why the French say it’s made from l’eau de vie (the water of life). The velvety spirit is the most famous variety of brandy and is named for the area in France where it must be produced. The area around the town of Cognac, France, is divided into six grape-growing regions. The most expensive fruit comes from Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Borderies. Once picked, the grapes are fermented and then distilled twice in copper pot stills, which produce a colorless alcohol called eau-de-vie. The spirit is then aged in oak barrels. Most cognacs are a blend of different eaux-de-vie of varying ages and qualities. Cognacs are classified into a few general categories: VS, or very special, must be aged at least two years; VSOP, or very superior old pale, must be aged at least four years; and XO, or extra-old, must be aged at least six years.
Gin
Gin has been the drink of choice for statesmen, soldiers, WASPs and even the working class. It has a colorful and dramatic history, which rivals that of any other alcohol. And that’s not to mention the fact that the spirit is once again in vogue and a favorite of mixologists around the world. While the origins of the clear liquor are somewhat debatable, several hundred years ago, someone, most likely in Holland or Belgium, began to infuse alcohol with juniper berries and a variety of other botanicals. (This spirit was arguably the first flavored vodka.) Gin is still made this way today, and each brand has its own recipe and techniques for infusion. While all gin has some juniper flavor, the other botanicals can include a wide array of herbs, vegetables, flowers, fruits, spices and even tea. While gin is now a good seller, it was wildly popular in England in the 18th century. By 1720, an estimated 25 percent of all London households produced or sold gin. Fast-forward to the dark days of Prohibition, and gin was once again highly sought-after. The spirit could be made easily and quickly, even in a bathtub. The botanicals also helped to make rough alcohol somewhat more palatable. Much of the gin sold today, including Beefeater, is the so-called “London dry” style. But there are actually several other varieties, including Plymouth and old Tom, as well as the malty Dutch gin cousin genever, which has just recently been reintroduced to the American market.
Irish Whiskey
Derived from a Gaelic term meaning “water of life,” Irish whiskey is one of the oldest distilled beverages in the world. (Irish monks may have actually taught the Scots the art of distillation.) It’s also one of the most popular spirits on Earth. Over the last couple years, Irish distillers have had trouble keeping up with rapidly increasing demand. A key reason for these robust sales is Irish whiskey’s signature smoothness and sweetness, which makes it incredibly easy to drink. This unique flavor profile is due to two major factors: The whiskey is usually distilled three times, and the barley is rarely dried over burning peat. (Most Scotch is distilled twice and the malt is often peated, giving a smoky flavor.) While Scotland is home to almost a hundred distilleries, Ireland has only a handful. But they produce a number of different brands and types of whiskey. Here’s a shot of spelling with your glass of Irish whiskey. Whisky from Scotland, Canada and Japan is spelled without an “e.” Whiskey from Ireland and the United States is usually spelled with an “e.”
Liqueurs
The most varied and versatile category of spirits is arguably liqueurs, which includes everything from Baileys Irish Cream and Cointreau to Campari and Averna. Even though these concoctions all taste completely different, their basic recipe is fairly similar: alcohol and sugar (according to US law, a liqueur must contain at least 2.5 percent sugar by weight), plus spices, herbs, flowers, fruit, nuts or other flavorings. Many brands boast long histories, and a number of recipes are still secret.
Mezcal
There are few spirits as misunderstood as mezcal. For one, you should never buy a bottle of the liquor if it contains a worm—those mezcals are for tourists and contain cheap alcohol. But fortunately, there’s now a growing selection of fine mezcals available in America from a range of producers. Mezcal, like its cousin tequila, is made from agave, which, contrary to popular belief, is not a cactus but is actually part of the asparagales botanical order, making it a relative of the yucca plant and Joshua tree. While tequila can only be made in the Tequila region and from just blue Weber agave, mezcal is usually produced in Oaxaca (it can legally come from anywhere in Mexico) and can be made from many types of agave, some of which only grow wild. Historically, producers used whatever agave they found locally. The other big difference between the two types of Mexican liquor is that mezcal distillers traditionally slow-roast the agave by burying it in pits with hot rocks, which infuses the final product with its signature smokiness. (Tequila’s agave is generally baked in stone ovens or autoclaves.)
Rum
Rum lovers around the world owe a great debt to a simple plant: sugar cane. Hundreds of years ago, there was a sugar craze in Europe, and colonies were established around the Caribbean to make the sweet commodity. But the production of sugar creates a lot of byproduct—namely, molasses. There wasn’t much use for the thick, sticky, sweet substance until it was discovered that molasses could be fermented and then distilled. The alcohol quickly became popular with pirates, sailors and America’s founders. Rum also became a key element in the infamous “slavery triangle.” The Brits shipped molasses to New England, where it was transformed into rum, proceeds from the sales of which purchased slaves in West Africa, who were subsequently taken to the sugar cane plantations in the Caribbean and South America. While the rules for rum production vary greatly from country to country, there are two main types: light and dark. The color of the spirit is primarily determined by the amount of time it has spent aging in oak barrels. The longer it’s been aged, the more color and flavor it picks up from the wood. Some experts say that the Caribbean’s high heat and humidity help speed up the alcohol’s maturation. No matter the color, most rum is still made from molasses, but some brands do use fresh sugar cane juice.
Rye Whiskey
Bourbon and Scotch may be best-sellers, but the drink of choice for many whiskey connoisseurs is increasingly often a glass of rye. Up until recently, this historic American spirit was fading into obscurity. Liquor stores and bars usually stocked just a few old, dusty bottles. But there has been a miraculous rebirth of the rye category, and drinkers now prize its big, spicy and brash flavors. Distillers are now struggling to keep up with demand. Rye has a lot in common with that other American whiskey, bourbon, and the two spirits are usually produced in the same Kentucky distilleries using similar methods. Both are typically made from corn and rye, but the ratio of ingredients is very different. Rye whiskey is made from at least 51%—you guessed it—rye, while bourbon is made from at least 51% corn. The higher percentage of corn makes bourbon sweeter and smoother. (You can easily taste the difference if you make one Manhattan with bourbon and another with rye.) Both spirits are also aged in new, charred, American-oak barrels. To make things more complicated, Canadian whisky is sometimes also called rye. The distillers to our north use the same grains, but the finished product is usually a smooth blend instead of a straight whiskey. Here’s a shot of spelling with your glass of rye. Whisky from Scotland, Canada and Japan is spelled without an “e.” Whiskey from Ireland and the United States is usually spelled with an “e.”
Scotch
Sorry, Sean Connery: Scotland’s greatest export will always be whisky. The country’s residents have been distilling for hundreds of years, and the alcohol is some of the most highly sought-after in the world. It’s also one of the most highly regulated spirits in the world. There are just less than 100 distilleries operating in Scotland, and they all must abide by the Scotch Whisky Association’s rules. The alcohol has to be made entirely in Scotland and aged there in oak casks for at least three years and one day. Most of the casks are used bourbon barrels made of American oak. Some distilleries also age whisky in old sherry, wine and even rum casks. The final product has to be a minimum of 80 proof. After malting, the barley used for many Scotches, especially those made on the island of Islay, is dried using smoke from burning peat. This gives the finished whisky a pronounced smoky flavor. There are two major categories of Scotch: single malts and blends. What’s the difference? Single malts, like The Glenlivet or The Macallan, are made from 100 percent malted barley and are the product of just one distillery. A blended Scotch, like Johnnie Walker or Chivas Regal, is a combination of single malts from many different distilleries and aged grain whisky. (This smooth whisky is produced in a column still and can be made from any kind of grain, rather than just malted barley.) Not that long ago, the only Scotches you could buy in the US were blends. That began to change in the late 1970s, when Americans started to buy less whisky and more vodka. As a result, the blenders also began buying less whisky. In an attempt to spur sales, the distillers began bottling their single malts and marketing them directly to drinkers. Single malts have become so popular that many distilleries are now running around the clock and have stopped selling to blenders altogether. Here’s a shot of spelling with your glass of Scotch. Whisky from Scotland, Canada and Japan is spelled without an “e.” Whiskey from Ireland and the United States is usually spelled with an “e.”
Tequila
Contrary to popular belief, tequila is not cactus juice. The spirit is distilled from blue Weber agave. (And for the record, it should never come with a worm in the bottle.) Just like Champagne or cognac, tequila can only be made in a specific region: the Mexican state of Jalisco and some surrounding areas. The area’s volcanic soil is perfect for growing agave. The forbidding plant, which has sharp thorns and long, thick leaves, takes between eight and 12 years to reach maturity before it can be harvested. The heart of the plant, which can weigh well over 100 pounds, is peeled, roasted and crushed, and its sweet juice is then fermented and distilled. (While premium tequila is made from pure agave, cheaper tequila called mixto is distilled from both agave and other sugars.) Tequila is usually distilled twice. There are four main tequila categories: Blanco (also called silver, plata or platinum) is aged for less than two months and is clear; reposado is aged between two and 12 months and is golden-colored; añejo is aged between one and three years and is a whisky-like brown; and extra-añejo, a new category introduced by the Tequila Regulatory Council in 2006, is aged more than three years. Tequila, like most Scotches, is typically aged in used bourbon casks.
Vodka
Vodka is a chameleon and blends seamlessly with just about anything. This is no accident: While there are no universal rules for producing the spirit, the final product is supposed to be colorless, odorless and tasteless. With that said, vodka isn’t completely neutral, and a number of distillers actually leave in a good amount of flavor. (The best way to taste these subtle differences is to drink vodka neat at room temperature.) Traditionally, vodka was made from potatoes, corn or grains, but it is now made from a range of exotic bases including grapes, maple syrup and even soybeans. Unlike Scotches and cognacs, which are made in pot stills, vodka is usually produced in a high-volume, continuous column still. After distillation, the spirit is filtered to remove any remaining impurities. Coal is a traditional filter, but brands today use a range of materials, even including diamonds. Vodka isn’t aged and can be bottled and sold immediately after production. What’s also helping to drive sales in America is the wide range of flavored vodkas now on the market. While the spirit may be clear, its history isn’t. No one is sure where it was first made. Each vodka-producing country, of course, claims to be the inventor. What we do know is that people began drinking vodka in America as early as the beginning of the 20th century. Sales of the spirit were low until after World War II, when Americans began to shift away from Scotch and bourbon. This movement was helped by Smirnoff’s aggressive marketing in the ‘50s and ‘60s and later by the introduction of the Swedish Absolut and the super-premium Grey Goose. Today, vodka is the most popular spirit in America and outsells rum, tequila and gin combined.